On a similar note as last time, we’re again leaving with the sense of having seen so much but barely scratching the surface. We spent our last day in Osaka taking a day trip over to Kobe to try the famous beef. We also tried to check out another festival at a nearby shrine, but it ended up being misinformation! But that concludes this segment of our trip in Japan. Now Vietnam awaits!

After the somewhat crazy night at the bars, I had crashed at my friend’s place nearby. He had to leave super early, but graciously let me sleep in till checkout.

View of Osaka, Japan, from APA Hotel in Kita Ward.

I spent a bit of time observing the very loud cicadas apparently populating the forest wall on the side of the building outside the hotel.

Then I made it back to meet Patton for breakfast at our hotel 20 minutes before the 10:00 cutoff. We ate a lot, too much, and it took us till 10:20 to finish, when they started trying to kick people out.

Last breakfast at DoubleTree by Hilton Osaka Castle hotel in Japan.

Run around Osaka

Then I went for a much needed run! I really have not been training enough for my 50K race coming up in a few weeks. This run was not as long as I hoped, but it was something. I planned to do 12, but ended up running out of time — and also being very tired and not feeling great — after close to 8 miles. Partway through I had to buy a liter of water from 7-Eleven, and drank almost the whole thing at once.

Out for a run in Osaka, Japan.

This was the closest I've seen to a homeless encampment in Japan. I don't think anyone's actually living here, I think it's just a dumping ground? Near the base of a bridge in Osaka, Japan.

Out for a run in Osaka, Japan. I guess they are gearing up to host the world's fair next year.

This bridge was not designed for tall people! Out for a run in Osaka, Japan.

Out for a run in Osaka, Japan.

Day trip to Kobe

Our last planned day trip in Japan was to the town of Kobe, where we wanted to try the famous Kobe beef.

Patton and I went to Kobe for the evening to try some Kobe beef.

We got there about an hour before our somewhat early 17:00 reservation at Mouriya Honten, so we walked through another nice covered pedestrian street.

Kobe Motomachi, another nice fully covered walking street with a mall feel, in Kobe, Japan.

Kobe Motomachi, another nice fully covered walking street with a mall feel, in Kobe, Japan.

Then we went over to the other side of the train tracks to explore what was apparently a Chinatown in Kobe. It was very clean, being Japan, which made it feel quite different than the Chinatown in San Francisco.

Patton waited for some fresh gyoza while I went exploring Chinatown in Kobe, Japan.

The gate at the western entrance of Chinatown in Kobe, Japan.

Exploring a Chinatown in Kobe, Japan.

I loved the super intricate mural on this random retractable metal door.

Exploring a Chinatown in Kobe, Japan.

Exploring a Chinatown in Kobe, Japan.

The gate called Choanmon Gate (長安門) at the eastern entrance of Chinatown in Kobe, Japan.

Then we went back over to the restaurant.

Little garden globe things at Green Planet in Kobe, Japan.

This is the street where the restaurant, Mouriya Honten, sits. I didn’t really capture it well but I loved the mountains in the background. It was really nice looking.

Walking around Kobe, Japan.

This place apparently has a Russian name. I didn’t find information about why, but I did see the name written in Cyrillic on the side of the building there, моря, which means seas or water. Kobe is on the sea, but I’m not sure if that’s related. On the company’s “about page“, which has a very standard Japanese format, it just says the they were “Founded as a private shop in the 18th year of Meiji.” and the company idea is:

Our idea is that we will make your heart happy through offering good meat with the service of care and consideration, and we will make our efforts to be tomorrow’s provisions for guests who have spent short time at Mouriya.

Very sweet.

We tried Kobe beef at Mouriya Honten, Kobe, Japan.

Kobe beef at Mouriya Honten, Kobe, Japan.

It was definitely interesting, though not as extremely buttery or fatty tasting or melty as I had read. Still it was fatty enough that I did not want to eat a ton of it.

We tried Kobe beef at Mouriya Honten, Kobe, Japan.

The preparation was very interesting though. The chef spent a long time on these chips made from a large bulb of garlic.

We tried Kobe beef at Mouriya Honten, Kobe, Japan.

We tried Kobe beef at Mouriya Honten, Kobe, Japan.

We tried Kobe beef at Mouriya Honten, Kobe, Japan.

Dinner concluded, we headed back to Osaka.

On our way back to Osaka from Kobe, Japan.

Phantom festival at Sumiyoshi Taisha

We read there was going to be another festival of some sort at 20:00 in Osaka, this time at a 2000 year old Shinto shrine called Sumiyoshi Taisha. Yes, it was apparently founded in the year 211. Pretty crazy that it feels so normal to walk around.

Interesting railings at Sumiyoshitaisha Station in Osaka, Japan.

Anyway, the shrine’s own website stated there would be “one of Osaka’s largest summer festivals” called Sumiyoshi Matsuri Festival happening there that night:

The Sumiyoshi Matsuri is one of Osaka’s largest summer festivals. It is held every year from July 30 to August 1. It is also called the Oharae, meaning “purification,” because its ceremonies ward off disease and other misfortunes. Before the festival begins, the portable shrines, or mikoshi, which are used to carry the deities, are cleansed. The water for this task is drawn from Osaka Bay in the early hours of the morning.

On July 30 at 8:00 p.m., the Yoimiyasai ceremony is held to transfer the deities to the mikoshi. The Nagoshi no Harae Shinji, or “summer purification ceremony,” is performed the following day. The ceremony consists of a procession that includes shrine maidens, children, and dancers dressed in colorful Muromachi period (1336–1573) costumes. They pass through huge standing rings made of plaited grass, which is considered spiritually cleansing.

When we got there before 19:40, we could tell right away this was probably not going to be one of Osaka’s largest festivals. What’s more, we had gotten Chakib to come meet us here for this festival, though he was running a bit late. We decided to walk around and take some photos till he got there.

Exploring Sumiyoshi Taisha at night, Osaka, Japan.

Exploring Sumiyoshi Taisha at night, Osaka, Japan.

Exploring Sumiyoshi Taisha at night, Osaka, Japan.

Exploring Sumiyoshi Taisha at night, Osaka, Japan.

Exploring Sumiyoshi Taisha at night, Osaka, Japan.

Well, 20:00 came and went. Chakib got stuck at a transfer, and once we were pretty sure nothing was happening here after waiting around 40 minutes, we let him know that he didn’t need to take the next train here and we’d just head back instead. Bummer!

Exploring Sumiyoshi Taisha at night, Osaka, Japan.

We all met back at the hotel for our last night in Osaka. At least the castle still looked nice out our window!

View from DoubleTree by Hilton Osaka Castle hotel in Osaka, Japan.

Goodbye Japan, for now!

Patton and I had to leave the hotel at about 06:00, too early for breakfast unfortunately. We let Chakib sleep in and eat on our behalf and check out for us.

First rays of morning sunshine across Osaka, Japan, as seen from DoubleTree by Hilton Osaka Castle.

First rays of morning sunshine across Osaka, Japan, as seen from DoubleTree by Hilton Osaka Castle.

Cute little origami or just model trains at Osaka-Umeda station in Osaka, Japan.

More of these interesting stepped railings at Osaka's Kansai Airport.

We got to the airport smoothly and hung out as this super barebones lounge till our flight boarded a bit before 09:00.

About to leave Japan from Osaka's Kansai Airport. Thankfully this lounge was free with Patton's special card, because wouldn't have paid the $35 or $50 admission just for access to some individually wrapped cookies and crackers.

We finally used the cup noodles Patton had been carrying around since Hawaii, on the airplane en route to Vietnam on VietJet Air flight VJ939 from Osaka to Hanoi.

Well, that was truly a whirlwind trip to Japan! We visited more cities and places than I think I did in my entire year living in Tokyo — although I didn’t know for most of that year how short my time living there would be, not that that’s an excuse! Something about living like there’s no tomorrow…

After all these years, I had still thought about Japan fondly, but remembered mostly that I didn’t want to move back. There were a lot of inconveniences as a foreigner living there, particularly with getting apartments and paying utilities and dealing with healthcare as a gay man, and more. But this trip reminded me of the SO MANY things I loved about Japan. The transit, of course, and the accessibility of everything in general. It was even easier to navigate than I remembered, and a higher portion of people I interacted with seemed to speak English compared to 10 years ago. In the end, I am finding myself wanting to come back and see more of Japan, soon!

Thank you to all the friends who helped Patton and I have a great time in Japan, especially Chakib! The past two weeks went so much better than I could have hoped for, and I am really going to cherish my memories of my time here.

En route to Vietnam from Osaka, Japan, on VietJet Air flight VJ939 from Osaka to Hanoi, Vietnam.

But for now it’s time to adjust to an entirely different country and culture. Next up: Saigan, Vietnam!

Entries in this series

1. Japan reunions, hedgehogs, my first capsule hotel (July 22-24)
2. Kyoto: Gion festival and a hillside run (July 24-25)
3. Exploring Tenjin Matsuri in Osaka (July 25)
4. View from Daihikaku Senkōji Temple, and Arashiyama Bamboo Grove (July 26)
5. Deers of Nara, then Uji and Fushimi Inari (July 27)
6. A walk from Kyoto to Lake Biwa (July 28)
7. Touring Osaka Castle, Umeda Sky Building, Osaka gay bars (July 29)
8. Running around Osaka, Kobe, leaving Japan (July 30-31)
9. Another delightful but very short Japan excursion (August 14)