Kyoto: Gion festival and a hillside run
Patton and I left Tokyo July 24 and went to Kyoto, where we stayed about five days aside from a side trip to Osaka. We happened to be in Kyoto for Gion Matsuri, one of many festivals around Japan during these months. Then I did my first training run in Kyoto the next morning before we departed for Osaka for the evening.
Wednesday, July 24: Arriving in Kyoto, Gion Matsuri at Yasaka Shrine
Patton and I left Tokyo via the 12:24 Shinkansen (“new main line”) train to Kyoto, arriving a bit over 2 hours later. We checked into the conveniently located DoubleTree by Hilton Kyoto Station and showered. We were only outside a few hours since the last hotel, but we were already drenched in sweat. This would happen repeatedly of course, but we adapted. Then we headed out to explore the area!
DoubleTree by Hilton Kyoto Station
DoubleTree by Hilton Kyoto Station
We made a new friend Greg, who was visiting Japan from his home in Guam, though originally he’s from the U.S. East Coast I think.
On or near Teramachi Street in Kyoto.
We spent a couple of hours walking around Teramachi Dori, a long street with an indoor mall feel. There were many stores, outdoor food vendors, bars, restaurants and other attractions.
Walking around Hanno-Ji temple in Kyoto, near Teramachi Street.
Honno-ji Temple was moved and rebuilt after the warlord Nobunaga was attacked and died by suicide there in 1582.
Walking around Hanno-Ji temple in Kyoto, near Teramachi Street.
Walking around Hanno-Ji temple in Kyoto, near Teramachi Street.
Walking around Hanno-Ji temple in Kyoto, near Teramachi Street.
Walking around Hanno-Ji temple in Kyoto, near Teramachi Street.
Walking around Hanno-Ji temple in Kyoto, near Teramachi Street.
We walked more around Teramachi till almost dark.
On or near Teramachi Street in Kyoto.
Outside a Shinto shrine called 八坂神社 御旅所（東御殿）, Yasaka Shrine Otabisho (East Palace). It's about 1 kilometer west on Shijo-dori Street from the larger Yasaka Shrine.
Outside a Shinto shrine called 八坂神社 御旅所（東御殿）, Yasaka Shrine Otabisho (East Palace). It's about 1 kilometer west on Shijo-dori Street from the larger Yasaka Shrine.
Outside a Shinto shrine called 八坂神社 御旅所（東御殿）, Yasaka Shrine Otabisho (East Palace). It's about 1 kilometer west on Shijo-dori Street from the larger Yasaka Shrine.
Around sunset we ventured by foot over to a famous shrine called Yasaka. It was quite beautiful, and we walked around the grounds taking photos for quite some time. We came out on the other side and explored Maruyama Park in the dark and then circled back. Eventually it became obvious “something was going on”, as more and more people filled the shrine grounds.
People crowd the steps of the Shijo-dori entrance to Yasaka Shrine in Kyoto. I thought maybe they were watching the sunset, but this area was still packed long after dark.
Yasaka Shrine in Kyoto.
Yasaka Shrine in Kyoto.
Yasaka Shrine in Kyoto.
Yasaka Shrine in Kyoto.
Walking around Maruyama Park, near the Yasaka Shrine in Kyoto.
My photos are not always perfect. :-) Walking around Maruyama Park, near the Yasaka Shrine in Kyoto.
Exploring Yasaka Shrine in Kyoto with our friend Greg during the Gion Matsuri.
We stood around the central area where a zone was roped off, and it seemed like folks were waiting for something to happen there. Greg asked a local boy via Google Translate on his phone what was going on, and the boy told us “the mikoshi is coming”. I looked that up and then it came back to me. A mikoshi is basically a portable Shinto shrine used to transport a diety from one place to another. It was already about 21:00, but our young friend said he didn’t know when it was happening. While waiting there, Patton met another friend, Giuseppe, who is a musician and professor from Sicily.
Greg was a champ, having no fear of asking locals for information even by using Google translate. We learned from this nice young man the folks were gathered here waiting as "the mikoshi is coming". I searched that and learned that was the name of the mobile shrines I've seen paraded on the streets...Watching a festival at the Yasaka Shrine in Kyoto, where the mobile mikoshi was transported from another shrine to this one.
At around 21:20 a parade of folks started streaming through the large gate into the cordoned off area. There were people carrying poles and banners, lanterns, a young boy on a horse, and many more. Then the mikoshi was carried in as everyone chanted some kind of repetitive phrase that we were told didn’t have much specific meaning but was sort of like “let’s go”, though it might have been lost in translation. They carried the mikoshi around the building in the center at least three times, stopping frequently to rock it back and forth. It was a very celebratory atmosphere, but we had no idea how long this was going to go on. After an hour, they were still parading the shrine around. We left to check out what was going on in the street on the way to food.
Watching a festival at the Yasaka Shrine in Kyoto, where the mobile mikoshi was transported from another shrine to this one.
While watching a festival at the Yasaka Shrine in Kyoto July 24, the mikoshi has finally arrived at a bit after 22:00. It was then carried around the center pagoda three or more times, which took quite a while due to stopping and dancing frequently.
There was still a long parade of people heading from the street into the shrine grounds. We stopped to watch for a while, and then went to find food.
After leaving the festival at the Yasaka Shrine in Kyoto, we found a very long procession was still headed up Shijo-dori more than an hour later, close to 23:00.
We ate at いも松 (Immo-matsu, potato pine) restaurant in Nakagyō, Kyoto. I had a salad with Patton and some kind of hot pot cooked at the table. I think Greg and Giuseppe didn’t eat or just ate the small pickled dishes and just drank. The restaurant kicked us out after some time, though I was not sure why. It didn’t seem like they were closing, though it was close to midnight.
Ate at いも松 (Immo-matsu, potato pine) restaurant in Nakagyō, Kyoto. I had a salad with Patton and some kind of hot pot cooked at the table. I think Greg and Giuseppe didn't eat or just ate the small pickled dishes and just drank. The restaurant kicked us out after some time, not sure why. It didn't seem like they were closing, though it was close to midnight.
Greg and I walked about 45 minutes along the Kamo River back to our hotels. It was after midnight, but there were groups of people milling about. It felt a tiny bit sketchy but not too bad.
Pedestrian underpass near Kyoto Station.
Thursday, July 25: A slow 10 mile run around Kyoto hills
Thursday morning I went for a 10.5 mile very slow run around Kyoto’s hills. It was still early, so it only got to about 85 degrees F. Hot enough though! I brought a 1.5L water reservoir as well as an additional 700mL flexible bottle. I think that was enough, but just barely. I ran out about two miles before I got back to the hotel, and drank a lot of orange drink at the 7-Eleven near the hotel.
Pedestrian walkway along Kamo River in Kyoto.
While we were not planning to go to the “bamboo forest” at Arashiyama till tomorrow, I did end up in some bamboo forests on the hillsides during my run. I took a bunch of photos with my phone, but that was difficult since my phone was constantly overheating, “freezing” due to the heat, and the lens was covered in salt water. I would later try to keep a dry handkerchief in the outer pocket of my running vest to try to be able to clean the lens before taking a photo. But generally everything was wet and sticky.
Out for a run in Kyoto.
Out for a run in Kyoto.
Out for a run in Kyoto.
Out for a run in Kyoto.
Out for a run in Kyoto.
Out for a run in Kyoto.
I got some orange drink and water at 7-Eleven near the hotel and then showered so we could head off to Osaka for the night per Chakib’s suggestion.
Entries in this series
- Japan reunions, hedgehogs, my first capsule hotel (July 22-24)
- Kyoto: Gion festival and a hillside run (July 24-25)
- Exploring Tenjin Matsuri in Osaka (July 25)
- View from Daihikaku Senkōji Temple, and Arashiyama Bamboo Grove (July 26)
- Deers of Nara, then Uji and Fushimi Inari (July 27)
- A walk from Kyoto to Lake Biwa (July 28)
- Touring Osaka Castle, Umeda Sky Building, Osaka gay bars (July 29)
- Running around Osaka, Kobe, leaving Japan (July 30-31)
- Another delightful but very short Japan excursion (August 14)
